(The colorful blossoms made an appearance elsewhere.) But the star of this show might well have been the stunning house-made squid ink pasta spangled with bits of sundried tomato, tossed with spinach and adorned with nasturtium leaves, a garnish more chefs might consider. The lingering burn that accompanied the Shrimp Fra Diavolo was certainly not imagined this dish took its name seriously. We do have to admit that the pulled pork seemed superfluous in the accompanying dirty rice and that the béarnaise might have used a touch more tarragon, but the fish was good enough to transcend any missteps by bit players, real or imagined. Big plates emerge from the bustling, open kitchen fully ready for prime time assuming a blackened and grilled swordfish to be typical, the chef seems to have a deft hand for cooking fish to just the perfect point. A snapper ceviche, on the other hand, needed a little more of the advertised serranos (and a touch more lime) to make it truly sing. Though it seems uncharitable to look lump crab remoulade in the mouth, our fried green tomatoes came across as somewhat overdressed by the time other accessory items such as avocado, baby arugula and basil oil were added the tomatoes got lost in the shuffle. It’s got to be hard to follow the crowd-pleasing oyster act with equally successful starters. A Lucullan seafood platter that adds shrimp and king crab to the mix is also available, as are Silo’s signature, chicken-fried oysters. You are allowed to like both with or without the available sauces and/or horseradish, but we bet you’ll prefer to go naked. Where the Fanny Bays were bright, saline and finished with cucumber, the Hurricane Islands were plumper, sweeter and just faintly tinged with seaweed. The selection changes frequently and tends to favor the East Coast out of a sense of equal opportunity, we picked the one West Coast example (Fanny Bay British Columbia) to pit against New Brunswick’s Hurricane Island-and the difference couldn’t have been more pronounced.
Whether upstairs or downstairs, we suggest that you make that first glass a snappy white (ours was an unoaked 2012 Labouré Roi Macon Villages), as you’ll want to take immediate advantage of the excellent oyster options. There’s more than one way to banish the mundane.
But there is a twist at the new operation: Should you be obliged to wait at ground level before ascending to a table, you can buy a card that will get you wines from the classy dispenser that’s prominently displayed. The Silo architectural signature is alive and well at the new Terrace Oyster Bar: Yes, you do get into an elevator-here as at other Silos the brief ride serves to remove diners from the prosaic world of parking lots and shopping centers while it sets the stage for an elevated dining experience.
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